I have written about the first domesticated animal—but what about the first domesticated plants? Nobody is currently sure which exact grain or bean was first farmed but there is a list of eight Neolithic “founder crops” which seem to have come into cultivation more or less at the same time (about 12,000 to 10,000 years ago). Of the 8 original crops, three are grains: Emmer wheat, Einkorn wheat, and good old Barley. One of the crops was flax (which provided both linen and flaxseed). The four remaining Neolithic crops were all pulses (legumes, when used for food) namely lentils, peas, chickpeas, and bitter vetch.
These crops are surprisingly familiar. Just last summer I was sitting in my garden drinking beer (barley) and eating chickpea curry on flatbread (wheat—albeit a descendant of the first cultivars) while wearing a linen shirt. Peas and lentils are equally universal. However, there is one founder crop which has faded almost entirely from the modern world’s consciousness–bitter vetch (Vicia ervilia). I am writing this post because I was reading a 2nd century Roman text and came across mention of the vetch. Unfamiliar with the plant I looked it up and found out its ancient lineage. Vicia ervilia has been found at Neolithic and Eneolithic sites across Eastern Europe, the trans-Balkan, and the Levant. The bitter vetch is a small green plant with delicate frond-like leaves and lovely purple flowers. It bears tiny irregular grains which somewhat resemble lentils when split. The grain is exceedingly bitter—when cooked for human consumption the bitterness must be leached out with multiple changes of boiling water (a process which must be followed to prevent poisoning oneself–see more below).
Bitter vetch may have been a staple crop at the dawn of civilization and it was for sale in the markets of the first cities but it fell from favor as tastier starchier grains were discovered. The Roman reference which I encountered was in The Golden Ass by Apuleius, and, because of the narrative peculiarity, of that text it was unclear whether the bitter vetch was meant for people or for livestock. Ascetics ate it throughout the middle ages as a proof they were turning their back on the world, and, because it was easy to grow, it found use among the abjectly poor. To quote, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat’s The History of Food, bitter vetch “featured in the frugal diet of the poor until the eighteenth century, and even reappeared on the black market in the South of France during the Second World War.”
I have never tried bitter vetch (commenters, I’d love to hear from you regarding this) but it doesn’t sound very good or very nutritious. In fact it seems like it might be dangerous. As with Taroc and faba beans, unless one carefully follows a paticular preparation process, the bitter vetch seeds contain toxins. In an era where everyone is questioning monoculture, factory farming, and transgenic grains it is worth thinking about Bitter vetch. It is a reminder of how good we have it now.
19 comments
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January 29, 2011 at 9:14 PM
LLorenz100
I saw “vetch” mentioned in an old printing of Pinocchio (he couldn’t stand it) and I have always wondered what the heck it is…so thank you Wayne!
January 31, 2011 at 6:10 PM
Hieronymo
Lyndon, was that Carlo Collodi’s original “The Adventures of Pinocchio” where the puppet falls in with pimps and has his feet burned off and ends up hanged by brigands? I remember hearing that from a traditional Italian neighbor when I was a child and I have never cared for Pinnochio much since (does anybody?).
Disney sure could pick wholesome children’s stories…..
February 2, 2011 at 11:40 PM
LLorenz100
Holy cow Wayne you nailed it! Yes, I can still see the cover. Jeez there were some horrible episodes in that book!
January 31, 2011 at 1:53 PM
Zeke
Wayne, you will be happy to know that your very informative entry comes up in the first page of Google results on “vitter vetch”.
January 31, 2011 at 6:12 PM
Hieronymo
Zeke, finally my status in life is rising!
February 25, 2011 at 4:13 PM
Mark Goff
Hi!
There are two plants known by the common name Bitter Vetch – in your article you’ve mixed information about the two – a very easy mistake to make as many sources are muddled. Vicia Ervilia was a founder crop and is still grown in northern Africa and southern Europe – the seeds of this plant cause paralysis if not rinsed many times before being eaten. The seeds you show are the seeds of Vicia E, the flower photographs you show are of Lathyrus Linifolius, this plant from the Highlands of Scotland is also know as the Heath Pea and produces a tuber which when eaten suppresses the appetite and is not poisonous – I know because I grow and eat the tubers and I’m still here and weighing less than before but with no side effects. Hope this helps and be delighted to provide more info if required. Mark
February 28, 2011 at 7:17 PM
Hieronymo
Hi Mark, thank you so much for the information. I have updated the original Vicia ervilia article above and created a new post on the Heath Pea (and credited your helpful input). Just out of curiosity how does it taste?
June 2, 2011 at 6:56 AM
Joe the mac
hi Mark. I have been seaching for Heath Pea tubers ,do you know where I can buy some . thanks
September 12, 2012 at 1:37 PM
Sharon
Hi Mark, I would be interested in more details about the Heath Pea, if you wouldn’t mind contacting me? Thanks
March 16, 2013 at 4:47 AM
Moshe
thanks for getting the bitter info orderly .I was looking online
for this excect info ,knowing of the Bitter from Scotland ,but
all was mixed up ,like growing it in hot Africa and cold Scotland
Can you sell me some seeds or tell me how i can buy ,need
shedding some extras’ and hate the dumbe idea of gyme work .
I don’t thik it is a part of past activitys or that atlets live longer .
Thanks Mos
As a non English human i’d like suggesting someone put here a
speller-spelling correction tool so readers can understand faster
and mailer save time .to whom t may ……
April 10, 2014 at 7:01 PM
elijuboy@gmail.com
You ate it? Please tell exactly how it works I.e. how many seeds to eat etc…
December 1, 2022 at 11:46 AM
Sabrina Green
The seeds are not edible. The tubers are.
May 26, 2016 at 4:45 PM
Liz
Hi Mark, I am very interested in Harvesting some bitter vetch this year as it is now coming into bloom. Please can you email me with some information about the process to make them edible ….I would be so happy if you could contact me with any information as finding it hard enough to find any. Many thanks, Liz
October 2, 2016 at 11:27 AM
Mary
Hello Mr. Goff,
Do you sell Lathyrus linifolius seeds or the tubers? Please contact me if you do. I’m in the U.S.
October 29, 2011 at 3:34 AM
Hollan Lee Read
Joe – I bought some seeds here. They are coming along nicely! I believe Mark actually sold them to me. Small world.
http://davesgarden.com/products/market/view/7326/#b
October 2, 2016 at 11:31 AM
Mary
Hey, so you know where I can find Lathyrus linifolius?
October 16, 2012 at 1:44 PM
xx
bitter vetch might have been used as a fallow crop.
asian journal of plant sciences 1 (4): 467-69. (2002).
November 17, 2013 at 8:26 AM
HELEN ROSS
HI there am looking for a source of the bitter vetch tubers for human consumption preferably dried, can you tell me where I will find these I am based in Scotland.
Thanks
October 2, 2016 at 11:33 AM
Mary
Hi Helen, do you know where I can find Lathyrus linifoliuos for human consumption? Please contact me. Thanks.