People flooded through the doors of this year’s Tauranga Orchid Show, a wonderful sight for the organising team who no doubt breathed a sigh of relief . Plant sales tables were stripped bare over the course of the two days, which means everyone is happy – purchasers and the out-of-town vendors, some of whom had travelled from Whangarei and Auckland to be with us.
There was a happy buzz in the room, the sort that happens when old friends get together again after a while apart. Food 101 ran a great little cafe during the show and the Racecourse venue was great, as always. Visitors this year though turned left instead of right to find the show and the new room, which is shaped differently to the other, gave the display a fresh look.
Grand Champion orchid was Paphiopedilum Fleuret Isles, grown by Cliff Goodchild, president of the BOP Orchid Society. This plant also won Best Paphiopedilum and Best Specimen Plant. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Reserve Champion was Dendrobium Fortune Lady ‘Muse’ shown by Ninox Orchids of Whangarei. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Tania Langen of Ninox Orchids receives the Reserve Champion trophy from Tauranga Orchid Society president Conrad Coenen. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Best Cymbidium was Cym. Fury Land ‘Fortius’ grown by Ninox Orchids.
There were several new trophies awarded this year and the club was delighted that Susan Enticott, daughter of our late Life Member Brian Enticott was able to come and present the cup donated in Brian’s name.
Susan Enticott (left) with Lee Neale, grower of Laelia jongheana ‘Heart’s Desire’, winner of the Brian Enticott Cup for Best Cattleya. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Odontoglossum Anna-Claire, grown by Trevor and Pam Signal of the Tauranga society, won the new Barry Curtis bowl for Best Oncidiinae plant. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Jo Dawkins (left) and Deborah Parkinson admire Dendrobium Limelight, grown by Cliff Goodchild, winner of the new Best Australian Dendrobium trophy. Photo: Sandra Simpson
Howick Orchid Society in Auckland hosted the Orchid Council’s AGM and the Judging Seminar that traditionally runs alongside it, at Queen’s Birthday Weekend. Judges had 88 plants to work with and eight awards were submitted for ratification. Everybody seemed pretty happy with that outcome.
David Banks (right) presents Merv Dougherty of the Wellington Orchid Society his award for the Orchid of the Year, which also appears on the cover of the 2021 Orchids Yearbook. Photo: Sandra Simpson
As well as using their skills to judge plants, the judges also heard from speakers on various topics. The main speaker was David Banks from Sydney (Hills District Orchids), who is a genial walking encyclopedia of all things orchid. He and his wife Louanne were thrilled to be in New Zealand and the seminar was thrilled to have them!
In his after-dinner speech on Saturday night, David related the circumstances of his near-death or, as he put it, ‘in 2008 I got a bit crook’. First up was an unreported heart attack followed, later that week, by a coughing fit which “blew a hole in my heart more than an inch across”. His dad drove him to his local medical centre, which apparently upset staff more than David. “They thought I was going to die.” Rushed to hospital, he had open-heart surgery and stayed in hospital for a month.
“What was I worried about? Who’s going to water my orchids …” He arranged to split his collection with one mate taking all the mounted plants and the other all the potted plants. “All the potted orchids subsequently died because they weren’t in a heated greenhouse and were in a place that gets frosts.” Some of them were species orchids imported from the US and available only to those with the right connections.
David left his mounted orchids where they were but when that friend moved, sent them to the Australian National Botanic Gardens in Canberra where he could see them anytime. Two years ago, sadly, Canberra was hit by a destructive hail storm and the glasshouse was smashed, leaving his orchids in full sun on 40C days. “I wrote them off, and told myself I was better off not having any warm-growing orchids.” So when the orchid expert at the gardens asked, “when are you coming to get your plants?”, David was shocked to discover most of them had regrown. Over the years he’d also given the gardens bits of his potted plants and these too had thrived and were waiting for him.
“I took two cardboard boxes but needed a truck to get the plants home, they’d really grown in 4 years. Having thought I’d lost both collections, most of them came back to me.”
The moral of the story? “Share really special plants with other people. You never know when you might need them back.”
A Special Service Award was given to Anton and Janet Wehman (pictured above with OCNZ president Margaret Lomas, right) was in recognition for their contributions to OCNZ and the Howick Orchid Society. Howick was to host the AGM and Seminar last year with preparations well under way when it had to be cancelled due to Covid-19. Anton and Janet were also involved with organising the 2012 seminar, and Anton was the chairman of the organising committee for Expo 2016 with Janet assisting in the background.
And what of the orchids on display …
Gaining much attention for its other-worldly looks was Dendrobium spectabile, grown by Bill Pepperell of Waikato Orchid Society (above, Sandra Simpson photo). The orchid is native to most of Melanesia.
Rhyncattleanthe Brassy Gold (above, Sandra Simpson photo) was shown by Ross and Susan Tucker. The cross was registered in 2000.
Tauranga Orchid Society member Helen McDonald, who now lives in Waikato, brought along her large-flowered Dendrobium kuniko (above, Sandra Simpson photo). The plant is a primary hybrid of two species from The Philippines.
Owner Philip Zhou was enjoying the first flowering of Cymbidium Autumn Green ‘Dark Tide’ x faberi (above, Sandra Simpson photo).
Oncidium Pui Chin ‘Flying Tiger’ (above,Sandra Simpson photo). The cross was registered in 1987.
Masdevallia scobina (above, Sandra Simpson photo) was shown by Lee and Roy Neale of the Waitakere Orchid Society. This species is found in only one part of Colombia and was named for science in 1982.
This article has been put together from a talk Lee Neale (Leroy Orchids) gave at the 2019 National Orchid Expo and an article written in about 2005 by Jim Freeman of the Manhattan Orchid Society in New York.
Latouria dendrobiums – prolific flowering plants that come in a variety of colours with long-lasting flowers that can have dots, stripes, and bars – come from New Guinea, The Philippines, part of Indonesia, Melanesia (New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands and Fiji) and Australia. Fifty-three species have been identified (45 in New Guinea alone) but there could be up to 100.
Dendrobium Roy Tokunaga ‘Big Boy’. Photo: Sandra Simpson
In their native habitat the various Latouria species can be found from sea level up to about 3,800m, but they all get year-round rainfall, something to remember when we grow them. They are epiphytic plants, vigorous growers and tolerant to extremes in temperature.
Discovered by Blume in 1850, the genus was named for French botanist Leschenault de la Tour (1773−1826) and reclassified into Dendrobiums in 1855. However, Latouria orchids didn’t seriously catch the eye of hybridisers until the 1980s and 1990s. What makes them attractive to the hobby grower?
They flower quickly from the flask
The flowers last for months (6 months is not uncommon)
They flower easily and often more than once a year
Mature plants produce multiple stems per pseudobulb
They flower from the same pseudobulb for years
The plants are largely disease free
There are miniature and intermediate types available.
What are the down sides? Larger plants have tall, narrow pseudobulbs that can make for ungainly plants that tip over easily (but we already have plants like that, don’t we?) and flowers can be hidden under the top leaves or droop their heads on the stem. These shortcomings are being addressed by both line-breeding of species and hybridising, while the drooping flower issue can be countered by planting in a hanging basket.
Roy Tokunaga, of H & R Orchids in Hawaii, is one of the world’s top Latouria breeders. Leroy Orchids has imported many flasks from Roy and visited his business in Hawaii.
In Auckland conditions, which aren’t too dissimilar to those of Tauranga, Lee finds the plants don’t take a winter rest, although need less water then than in summer.
Dendrobium Lutin Blanc. Photo: Sandra Simpson
She pots them using a bit of fern fibre/sphagnum to help retain water, mixed with No 2 or No 3 bark and, to sharpen drainage, some pumice. The plants, which have fine roots, are fertilised with each watering and receive a feed of calcium once a month (Lee believes monthly calcium helps her plants grow more strongly). They need constant air movement and protection from direct sunlight, although like a good level of light. Lee repots when the new growths reach the side of the pot, moving the plant up just one size of pot.
If you have a top-heavy plant consider using a terracotta pot to help ‘anchor it’ but be aware that you’ll need to water it more often in summer.
Latouria Species and Hybrids
Possibly the most popular species for modern hybridising is Den. atroviolaceum; it’s compact, has purple-spotted white flowers that are large for the size of the plant, grows easily and can remain in bloom for up to 6 months. A pretty plant in its own right, it is the parent of a number of well-known hybrids such as Andree Millar, Roy Tokunaga and Wonder Nishii.
Den. aberrans is a true mini with pseudobulbs only a few inches tall. From the tips sprout little white flowers, blush pink around the labellum; they last and last and last — some claim up to 9 months! Its primary hybrids, Maiden Charlotte, Mini Snowflake, Micro Chip and Lutin Blanc, are near-perfect windowsill orchids, being under 15cm high.
Den. alexanderae has red-spotted twisted petals and a red-veined dagger-shaped lip and is one of the taller-growing species, but its size can be controlled in hybrids such as Green Elf and Spider Lily. It also has a warm, honey-like scent that may be passed on to its progeny!
Den. convolutum is the best-known warm-growing, green-flowered species. It stands about a 30cm high, can flower any time during the year, and the flowers typically last up to 6 months. Combined with Den. atroviolaceum it produces Andree Millar, and with Den. aberrans makes Aussie’s Pixie. Other well-known hybrids include Gerald McCraith, Green Elf and Key Lime.
Den. johnsoniae may be the most gorgeous Latouria: Its large white flowers have upswept petals and sepals like wings, and red lines in the lip. These qualities have earned it awards as a straight species, unusual for a Latouria. It’s a parent of such distinguished hybrids as Roy Tokunaga and Stephen Batchelor. Its flowers also last for months and can occur in any season.
A botanical illustration of Dendrobium macrophyllum by Walter Hood Fitch (1817-1892) that appeared in Curtis’s Botanical Magazine in 1867. Image: Wikimedia Commons
Den. macrophyllum has a wide native habitat which means it grows well in a variety of conditions. It’s one of the tallest, with pseudobulbs over 60cm high. Flower count is up to 25 per spike, and its green-to-yellow flowers have a good size and shape. It was parent to many early Latouria hybrids, such as New Guinea, Nellie, and Caprice.
Den. rhodostictum is another compact gem similar to Den. johnsoniae in size and looks: its white flowers have purple spots on the lip margins and are held above the foliage, they may have a light fragrance. Roy Tokunaga liked it so much he named one of its primary hybrids Nora Tokunaga after his wife; it’s also the other half of the popular Maiden Charlotte.
Den spectabile: Hillwood Gardens, Washington, DC. Photo: David J. Stang, via Wikimedia
Den. spectabile has bizarrely corkscrewed petals and sepals, yellow-green with heavy maroon spotting. It has a strong, sweet fragrance, rare in this group. It grows upwards of 60cm tall, with spikes rising up above the leaves. As a parent, it adds drama to hybrids like Adara Nishii and Woodlawn.
The Bay of Plenty Orchid Society arranged a talk about deflasking orchids from Monika Simpson of Auckland and kindly invited Tauranga Orchid Society members along to yesterday’s meeting for what turned out to be very practical and useful instruction.
Orchids grown from seed are initially grown in a ‘flask’ in agar gel until they reach a certain size, which is when deflasking takes place (ie, bringing them out of a controlled environment into the natural environment of a home, shadehouse or glasshouse). Flasks are generally either clear glass bottles or lab-type flasks, which often have to be broken to remove the plantlets, or clear plastic bottles, which are cut open. Bottle-shaped flasks are used on their sides.
Monika, who was born in Poland, has quickly upskilled since 2016 when she first became involved with the sale of flasks imported from overseas and it was this experience that she shared with her audience.
Monika Simpson with a flask of orchids. Photo: Sandra Simpson
One tip was to remember that plants in flasks imported from the Northern Hemisphere will need time to adjust to our seasonal cycle and, in fact, may not for the first season and you may see the plants go dormant in spring and summer.
“You should watch them and see what they want to do,” Monika said. “If the leaves are yellowing and dropping, let them go dormant and put them in a cooler, darker place.” This ‘adapting’ dormancy is generally shorter than normal.
“Leave them in the flask but watch for contamination. The flask will look horrible but dropped leaves won’t cause contamination.”
Is my flask ready to be opened? Usually, an imported flask contains plants already at the size for deflasking, but gauge it by eye: Look at the roots on the bottom of the flask. Are they strong and healthy with green tips? If it’s an orchid with a pseudobulb, have any bulbs formed? Have the plantlets grown since you’ve had the flask (remembering that Cymbidium plantlets will always be bigger than, say, Dendrobium plantlets)? If yes, then it’s likely time to deflask. Spring and summer are the best times to deflask.
If the flask has become contaminated (it can happen) and plants are dying an emergency deflasking will be necessary – but may not be successful.
How do I open the flask? There was more than one answer to this question. Lee Neale and Conrad Coenen like to unscrew the top just one twist and leave the bottle for a day or three, then half-untwist it and leave again before fully removing the lid and leaving again. This procedure, which takes 1-2 weeks, is to let the plants acclimatisate and harden a little before they’re removed.
Andy Easton (a New Zealand-born orchid breeder and grower now living in Colombia) moves his flasks to the area where the plants they contain will grow and lets them adjust to the situation before taking them out.
Monika, however, simply jiggles her plants away from the base end of the bottle and slices through the plastic with a bread knife. If using this method, prepare the worktop and have ready a bowl of lukewarm water, paper towels, sterilised tools, potting mix and a pot or several pots.
What do I do with the plants? Slide them into a bowl of lukewarm water and gently swish to release roots from the agar gel. If there is a contamination problem, Physan can be used in the water at the rate the manufacturer lists for orchid seedlings.
Andy Easton then leaves the plants on a paper towel and only pots on when the roots are white (dry). Monika pots immediately.
Deflasked plants in a community pot with the potting mix visible. Photo: Sandra Simpson
What’s the best potting medium? Monika talked about several media – she doesn’t use sphagnum moss, finding it hard to control its moisture content. “If it’s too wet, it’s also cold and will rot the plants. Once it goes crispy [dries out] it’s hard to rehydrate. Keeping it damp but not too wet is hard.”
She washes No2 bark (Kiwi Orchid Bark) the day before she wants to use it so it’s damp but not wet, and mixes this with perlite/pumice for potting. “The size of the bark is essential – No3 will create too many air gaps.” Conrad noted that mined NZ pumice will have too much zinc in it for plantlets so check the label before buying.
Monika also uses Fernwood treefern fibre, mixing it with No2 bark, and has had good results. “It holds the moisture but is also free-flowing,” and she finds it naturally warm whatever the ambient temperature. She uses two-thirds fern/ one-third bark.
Monika adds holes to her plastic community pots and is trialling copper tape around the top to deter slugs and snails. Photo: Sandra Simpson
What size pot should I use? The plants are used to growing closely together and appear to do best in a ‘community pot’ in their first growing season out of the flask. Monika uses clear, round plastic ‘bowls’ which aren’t too deep. She adds holes around the side and bottom.
“A transparent pot helps you see how much moisture is in the pot and whether there are any problems. If you can fit the whole flask into one pot, do it. The more plants there are, the more roots there are to absorb moisture.”
If the pot is deep, use large pumice or bark at the bottom and potting mix to the length of the roots and a little more. The chunky pieces at the bottom will also help drainage, which is crucial at this stage.
Where do I keep the pots? Monika has a heated growing house but for the rest of us, a mini-greenhouse has been endorsed by several members (like this one, available from Bunnings). Keep some water in the bottom for humidity and on hot days don’t forget to open the vents in the top.
A plant potted on from its community pot. Photo: Sandra Simpson
When should I pot on? One growing season, including one winter, in a community pot is enough. Don’t overpot the plants when they come out of the community pot, although Monika admits it can be hard finding the right size pot for plants with stiff roots. She is using Dalton’s small square pots (2019 pot catalogue here) and has also used round hydroponic seedling pots (see here or here). The medium remains the same (No2 bark with whatever else you’ve used before).
Can I mount deflasked plants? Monika advises putting plants destined for a mount into a community pot first and let them grow new roots. “The roots from the flask won’t attach to the mount.” If you mount a plant in spring, she said the roots will attach in 2-3 months. She doesn’t use any media around the roots of a mounted plant and especially advises against sphagnum moss. “The roots will go into it to seek moisture but may become suffocated”. Any extra moisture they need (beyond watering) can be had from the air.
What are the most important things to know after deflasking? 80% of your success will be down to environment, Monika said. Even cool-growing plants need more warmth to start them off out of the flask. Water: Keep plants evenly moist as roots will not be adjusted to wet/dry. Fertiliser: Fertilise as soon as the plants are deflasked at half-strength. Roy Neale advises that any plants with a pseudobulb will be heavier feeders. Humidity: Plants will grow better in higher humidity but will survive if everything else is good and the humidity isn’t optimal. There must be good air movement with higher humidity. Light: Slowly adjust the plants to the light they will receive as mature plants. Start them off slightly shadier, moving into more light after 2-4 weeks. The leaves are more sensitive at this early stage.
Note: The Orchid Council of NZ last month published an information sheet about importing plants. Read it here (opens as a pdf).
Tauranga Orchid Society 