On the 17 July when Princess Beatrice emerged from a private chapel in Windsor wearing her grandmother's vintage Norman Hartnell dress as her wedding gown, the latest bridal trend emerged. While royal weddings have always prompted or in some cases re-confirmed, the course of bridal fashion, they are also looked upon as social style guides as to what is acceptable. Princess Beatrice’s wedding will go down in history as she chose to go ahead with it during the coronavirus pandemic, so what she wore and how the affair was conducted bears great significance.
When the Queen married Prince Philip in 1947 there was a huge sense of austerity as the nation was recovering from the Second World War and the British public were still living on rations. As such her wedding dress designer, Norman Hartnell (it was another design of his that Bea wore) had to reflect this sensitive mood while embracing the celebratory sense of occasion that a royal wedding brings. Princess Beatrice’s thoughtful decision to wear vintage similarly showed that she had a clear understanding and respect for the nation’s mood during the current climate. It was both a sensible and sensitive choice which has been incredibly well received. Following her wedding pictures Vogue reported a surge in internet searches using the term ‘vintage wedding dress’ with the global fashion search platforming Lyst.com claiming a 297% spike in the 48 hours that followed. In short, the Princess’ wedding dress choice combined with the very relevant and ever growing topic of sustainability has put vintage back on the map like never before.
While not every bride will have access to an archive of Norman Hartnell gowns, there is an array of places to shop. Yet as the Queen’s couturier Stewart Parvin, who restyled and refitted Princess Beatrice’s Hartnell gown, points out, vintage needs to be approached with care and caution if you want to get it right.
KEEP AN OPEN MIND
Parvin’s biggest piece of advice for bridal vintage is to ‘look at it with an overview of what you will achieve rather than obsessing over the tiny details. When it comes to wearing vintage it’s imperative you have an open mind because it’s simply not a black and white process. There are complexities involved which most people don’t initially think about - from the way it’s cut through to the fabric.’
As he quite rightly says, the likelihood will be that brides will need to make alterations. This could be anything from refitting a dress to altering the overall style to suit your vision. ‘You really have to have a vision within yourself of what you ultimately want so you have a basis to work with and a dream to follow but within this be flexible or you’ll end up disappointed. Try it on and discuss it with an experienced designer.’ Keep in mind vintage items were made for a different person in a different era when people were much smaller, fabrics were more precious and the style of tailoring was different which means some alterations brides may have in mind are not always possible.
He adds that it’s also worth remembering that buying vintage bridal is an entirely different thing to wearing an existing family dress in terms of adaptations you may make. With an inherited piece you are limited to working with what you’ve got and may need to be kept in tack so try and think about adding removable accessories such as belts or a veil.
DESIGNER OVER SEAMSTRESS
Parvin recommends seeking the advice of an established designer over a seamstress. ‘You want to achieve something spectacular and that you are proud of, not a confused mix of styles which can so easily happen if the wrong person tampers with your design. Therefore employ someone with a serious eye to make your alterations, not a seamstress who will simply do what you tell them to, otherwise you risk your dress ending up looking like a tragedy.’ He adds that many people who have couture don’t necessarily have a vision or a creative imagination and need to be led by their couturier. ‘This is very much the case when working with a vintage dress - unless you’ve got imagination and empathy with the dress you could be disappointed.’ Finally, vintage requires a lot of care so something that is old is a lot more delicate and must be prepared accordingly by an expert especially if it has stains or is generally not pristine.
KNOW YOUR ERA & DESIGNER
‘While I definitely think vintage will be the new trend, brides need to focus on a good quality dress in the first place.’ Parvin adds ‘and more to the point something that is vintage in the true sense, not last decade's gowns! It’s almost that you want to be up-cycling your grandmother’s gown over your mother's. Often a mother’s gown will ultimately be unfashionable as it won't be vintage, just dated. While a Princess Diana 80s puffball is fabulous what most brides will end up doing is taking it to pieces and starting again which isn’t the point.’ Aside from Norman Hartnell Parvin recommends Hardy Amies, Ossie Clark, Maureen Baker and Christian Dior.
Karen Scott of the Notting Hill celebrity boutique Karen’s Vintage says, ‘Research your era and relevant designers. Styles are important but so are silhouettes. Not all girls' shapes will suit every era.’
Karen’s top tips for eras are as follows:
1930s - Immaculate feminine cuts, beautiful silks and satins with silk covered buttons - though beware dresses are very small.
1940s - The ultimate era for Hollywood glamour.
1950s - A fresh, new look, cutting in at the waist with lots of netting and huge amounts of fabric.
1960s - Straight cuts with floral details - think Twiggy.
1970s - Similar to the 30s, the 70s had wonderful cuts - flowing, angel sleeves, a lot of lace and cotton voile mixed in with frill details - think Ossie Clark, Gina Frattini, Anna Belinda and Laura Ashley.
1980s - Desperately romantic, pulled in at the waist with voluminous skirts and puff sleeves. Think Vivien Leigh in Gone with the Windand Lady Diana on her wedding day.
BE MINDFUL OF QUALITY / FABRIC
Scott says ‘As fabrics are one of the most special attractions of vintage you should only invest in high quality pieces. You simply don’t come across this anymore even in expensive modern day luxury pieces as sadly those fabric mills no longer exist.’ She adds, ‘Don’t be afraid to ask questions before you buy especially if it’s online as you won’t be able to touch and feel he difference between polyester or silk.’
WHERE TO SHOP
William Vintage
The London Marylebone boutique where serious collectors go for serious pieces. Victoria Beckham, Rhianna and Tilda Swinton have all visited over the years.
marylebonevillage.com
Karen Vintage
Run by Karen Scott, currently one of the most respected women in the business, expect a perfectly curated fantasy of Edwardian lace treasures to spectacular Ossie Clark gowns at this fashionable Portobello spot. Look out for the specialised bridal section.
Karenvintageboutique.business.site
Les Merveilles De Babel
The Paris boutique where the jet set fly to shop vintage. Globally recognised as one of the best vintage shops on earth, it is a treasure-trove of the best jewellery, accessories and clothing. Clients are said to include Mick Jagger, Liv Tyler, Uma Thurman, Madonna, Julia Roberts among countless others.
lesmerveillesdebabellou.com
1st Dibs
The go to for savvy high collectors of fashion, 1st Dibs displays some of the worlds best dealers items. A Balmain 50s white couture mini dress sits alongside a 60s Christian Dior demi couture ivory frock, while a long, sleek crystal rare Gianni Versace 90s gown is also an attraction. Other designers include Chanel, Celine, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.
1stdibs.com
Jane Bourvis
Using antique lace and textiles to hand craft gloriously unique wedding gowns with a collection of 25 dresses, the Notting Hill bridal boutique has been a black book secret of many stylish women for 20 years. They also have a stunning range of antique veils, headdresses and belts.
janebourvis.com
Gossamer
Possibly the most romantic of all vintage outlets, they source beautiful pieces which they clean, fix and bring back to life so they are in pristine condition and ready to wear. From Victorian to the 1980s and beyond, their bridal section is most definitely worth looking at.
shopgossamer.com
Farfetch
From a long sleeved lace Alberta Ferretti white gown to a summery ruffled maxi white Dolce & Gabbanna dress, the pre-owned section of Farfetch offers some incredible pieces especially for those wanting vintage in order to alter and refit.
farfetch.com
