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<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> 1<br />

Daniel F. Culbert 2<br />

<strong>Oleanders</strong> are evergreen shrubs or small trees<br />

native to the Mediterranean regions of southern<br />

Europe and southwest Asia. Nerium oleander L. has<br />

been cultivated in <strong>Florida</strong> since 1565 and its<br />

popularity in the southern tier of the United States<br />

continues today because of its bountiful flowering<br />

habit. It grows well on sandy soils near the coast and<br />

is widely cultivated near roadsides, edges of woods,<br />

lawns and gardens.<br />

Sometimes called the "Rose Bay," oleander has<br />

become associated in this country with tropical<br />

gardens. This plant derives its common name from<br />

oleandra which means olive-like in Greek. <strong>Oleanders</strong><br />

belong to the Apocynaceae or "Dogbane" family<br />

which includes Allamanda, Mandevilla, Carissa or<br />

Natal Plum, Frangipani, Confederate Jasmine, and<br />

Madagascar Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus). All<br />

parts of the oleander are poisonous, because of this,<br />

the plant should be restricted to locations where<br />

direct contact with people will be limited.<br />

DESCRIPTION<br />

This familiar <strong>Florida</strong> exotic is an ornamental<br />

shrub or small, densely branched tree, 3 to 30 feet<br />

tall. The many branches <strong>for</strong>m a vertically upright<br />

shrub with smooth bark varying in color from pale<br />

green to light gray. Two or three leaves with short<br />

petioles grow from each node. The foliage is<br />

evergreen, leathery, narrowly elliptic to linear elliptic,<br />

Fact Sheet ENH-116<br />

4 to 12 inches long, and a½to1inch wide, with<br />

entire margins. Foliage is dark green above and<br />

lighter in color below and will turn yellow be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

dropping. Some cultivars have variegated foliage.<br />

Flowering occurs on oleander the year round,<br />

with the most profuse flowering occurring during the<br />

warmer months. Each cluster of flowers (botanically<br />

called a cyme) develops on the tips of branches and<br />

is composed of several 3- to 4-inch red, pink, salmon,<br />

yellow or white flowers. The petals on each flower<br />

are about 1 inch long and have a fringed appendage<br />

at the base. Flower type may be single, with five<br />

petals; intermediate, with 2 superposed sets of petals<br />

(corollas); or double, with 2 or more whorls of petals.<br />

Fruits on oleander are uncommon, but when<br />

present the long narrow pods usually occur in pairs.<br />

Many tufted seeds are contained in the green to<br />

yellow fruits, which will be released when the brown<br />

pod splits open lengthwise. The foliage, flowers and<br />

fruit are shown in Figure 1.<br />

LANDSCAPE USE<br />

Oleander is one of our most versatile landscape<br />

plants <strong>for</strong> sunny seaside locations. Few evergreen<br />

shrubs are available <strong>for</strong> use in <strong>Florida</strong> that offer the<br />

fast growth, showy everblooming habit, and<br />

adaptation to full sun and poor soil conditions that<br />

oleander provides. Even fewer choices exist if high<br />

1. This document is Fact Sheet ENH-116, a series of the Environmental Horticulture Department, <strong>Florida</strong> Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong>, Institute<br />

of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of <strong>Florida</strong>. Publication date: October 1995.<br />

2. Daniel F. Culbert, county extension director and environmental extension agent, Indian River <strong>County</strong>, Vero Beach, FL 32960-2558; Cooperative<br />

<strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong>, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of <strong>Florida</strong>, Gainesville FL 32611.<br />

The term "plates," where used in this document, refers to color photographs that can be displayed on screen from CD-ROM. These photographs<br />

are not included in the printed document.<br />

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer authorized to provide research, educational<br />

in<strong>for</strong>mation and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, sex, age, handicap, or national<br />

origin. For in<strong>for</strong>mation on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong> office.<br />

<strong>Florida</strong> Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong> / Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences / University of <strong>Florida</strong> / Christine Taylor Stephens, Dean


<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> Page 2<br />

tolerance to drought and salt are important.<br />

Figure 1. Foliage, Flower and Fruit of Oleander.<br />

Selection and hybridization have resulted in cultivars<br />

of various plant size, different flower colors and<br />

shapes, and longer bloom persistence.<br />

<strong>Oleanders</strong> are available <strong>for</strong> use as small<br />

"standard" trees, shrubs, ground covers, large fencing<br />

or screening shrubs, and as potted patio plants.<br />

Dwarf <strong>for</strong>ms are available as large ground covers or<br />

container plants providing vivid, summer-flowering<br />

interest. For best results and minimum maintenance,<br />

be sure to choose a cultivar whose growth<br />

characteristics and ultimate size fit your intended<br />

landscape use. Table 1 lists common cultivars used in<br />

<strong>Florida</strong>.<br />

GENERAL CULTURE<br />

Oleander is adapted to climatic conditions<br />

throughout <strong>Florida</strong>. However, this plant may<br />

experience injury in cold weather. In northern and<br />

western <strong>Florida</strong>, it should be used where it can be<br />

protected from freezing conditions. While it is highly<br />

salt tolerant, it does not do well when directly<br />

exposed to salt spray. Plant it behind the dune lines<br />

<strong>for</strong> best results.<br />

Full sun is necessary <strong>for</strong> best flowering and <strong>for</strong><br />

development of a full, fountain-shaped crown. In<br />

shade, it will grow lanky and produce few flowers.<br />

Oleander is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and<br />

grows well in sandy dry areas. It is adaptable to a pH<br />

range of 5.0 to more than 8.3.<br />

Oleander transplants easily. For best results,<br />

plant container-grown oleanders during early<br />

summer when in active growth. Plants should be<br />

mulched to a depth of 3 inches.<br />

Newly planted oleanders should be irrigated<br />

regularly <strong>for</strong> the first few months to aid in<br />

establishment. Standards or larger specimens with<br />

stem diameters greater than 1-inch benefit from<br />

regular irrigation <strong>for</strong> one year. Oleander is very<br />

drought tolerant once established, but moist soils or<br />

irrigation stimulate growth.<br />

Oleander has low fertility requirements.<br />

Established plants usually do not need fertilizer<br />

because root systems extend into lawns where they<br />

can absorb nutrients from turf fertilizers. Growth of<br />

small plants may be stimulated with up to 3<br />

applications per year of a complete fertilizer. Use a<br />

rate of 1 pound nitrogen per 1000 square feet applied<br />

to the area within 1½ to 2 times the canopy diameter.<br />

Organic sources of nutrients and slow-release<br />

inorganic fertilizers will provide <strong>for</strong> longer periods of<br />

fertilizer availability.<br />

Pruning<br />

Young oleanders characteristically develop<br />

multiple stems. If a plant is to be grown as a<br />

"standard," the smallest stems should be removed<br />

leaving one main stem <strong>for</strong> a single-trunk specimen.<br />

<strong>Oleanders</strong> generally require some pruning <strong>for</strong> best<br />

flowering. "Suckers" or water sprouts may develop<br />

along the lower portions of main stems or from roots.<br />

Excessive suckering, especially with young plants, will<br />

inhibit flowering. Tip pruning to remove old flower<br />

clusters will increase the number of blooming tips.<br />

Dwarf cultivars occasionally grow tall shoots that<br />

must be removed to maintain the planting as a<br />

ground cover. Shoots of some dwarf and miniature<br />

cultivars occasionally die to the ground, and this dead<br />

wood should be removed when noticed.


<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> Page 3<br />

Figure 2. Rejuvenation pruning <strong>for</strong> oleanders: A) First year, B) Second year, C) Third year, D) Result<br />

If severe pruning is necessary to improve plant<br />

shape or <strong>for</strong>m, prune oleanders anytime after the rate<br />

of flowering has fallen. <strong>Oleanders</strong> are often pruned<br />

hard on an annual or regular basis. Such severe<br />

pruning can induce excess vegetative growth, basal<br />

sprouting, and fewer, but larger, flower clusters.<br />

Generally, the natural clumping type shape is<br />

preferred in hedges and screen plantings. Removal of<br />

one-third of the older stems or canes in successive<br />

pruning over three years is preferred to a complete<br />

cutting back of the plant to ground level. This is<br />

called rejuvenation pruning, as illustrated in Figure 2.<br />

Here are the steps:<br />

A) First year: Remove one-third of old mature<br />

stems near ground level.<br />

B) Second year: Remove one-half of the<br />

remaining old stems and head back long new<br />

shoots from last year’s growth.<br />

C) Third year: Remove the remaining old stems<br />

and head back the long new shoots.<br />

D) The desired Result will be apparent at the end<br />

of the third year of growth.<br />

The time to prune may be dictated by personal<br />

preference, but avoid late fall or winter pruning which<br />

encourages frost sensitive new growth.<br />

Pests<br />

<strong>Oleanders</strong> can be one of the most pest-free<br />

landscape plants with proper placement and pest<br />

monitoring. Primary pests are the oleander<br />

caterpillar, oleander scale, and occasionally aphids.<br />

Witches’ broom is a serious plant disease of oleander.<br />

Bacterial gall and mushroom root rot are other plant<br />

diseases that may be encountered. For current<br />

pesticide recommendations, please contact your<br />

county’s Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong>.<br />

The Oleander caterpillar (Plate 1) is the most<br />

significant insect pest of oleanders. The caterpillar is<br />

an immature (larval) phase of the Oleander Moth,<br />

Syntomeida epilais jucundissima. The adult female<br />

moth lays clusters of 25 to 75 orange eggs under<br />

leaves. Young larva will skeletonize the leaves, while<br />

the more mature, orange-colored caterpillar with<br />

black spots and hairs will eat the entire blade. By<br />

biting the veins, the caterpillar drains the toxic sap<br />

be<strong>for</strong>e consuming the leaf.<br />

When it reaches a mature size of about 2 inches<br />

long, the insect pupates. The silk-covered cocoon<br />

yields a purple-black winged moth that has several<br />

white dots on the wings. With a sixty-day life cycle,<br />

this pest can have three generations in a year.<br />

Scouting <strong>for</strong> the eggs and young caterpillars in March,<br />

July and December will enable control measures to<br />

reduce feeding damage. Bacillus thuringensis<br />

insecticides can provide environmentally safe yet<br />

effective control. Chemical insecticides also can be<br />

used.<br />

Oleander scale, Aspidiotus nerii, are common on<br />

many plants in our subtropical area. These small (1-2<br />

mm) whitish insects are found on either the top or<br />

bottom surface of the leaf, and are round in shape.<br />

Their hard, armored shell makes them difficult to<br />

control. Other scales that may be found on<br />

oleander include the black, dictyospermun, false<br />

oleander (Plate 2), <strong>Florida</strong> wax (Plate 3),<br />

hemispherical (Plate 4), nigra, and plumose scales.<br />

Other sucking insects affecting oleander may<br />

include the Oleander aphid, Aphis nerii, and the<br />

Longtailed Mealybug, Pseudococcus longispinus (Plate<br />

5). Aphids are yellow, soft-bodied insects which<br />

damage oleanders by inserting mouthparts into soft<br />

tissue and extracting plant sap. Aphids can reproduce<br />

rapidly. Heavy infestations distort leaves and stunt<br />

new growth.


<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> Page 4<br />

One or more insect population peaks may occur<br />

at any time between May and September. Although<br />

many predatory insects feed on aphids, they usually<br />

cannot control the aphids. Regular scouting, removal<br />

of branches with high levels of infestation, and sprays<br />

of insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils are the most<br />

environmentally safe pesticides. Persistent problems<br />

may indicate a need <strong>for</strong> chemical insecticides.<br />

During feeding, aphids secrete droplets of a<br />

sugary solution called "honeydew." Drops of<br />

honeydew fall from the aphids onto leaves and stems<br />

below. This sugary solution promotes the growth of<br />

sooty mold fungi (Plate 6), Capnodium species. Sooty<br />

mold appears as a black staining or powdery coating<br />

on leaves and stems. The blackened leaves and stems<br />

are often the most obvious sign of aphid infestation.<br />

Although unsightly, sooty mold itself does not<br />

directly harm oleanders. However, the black fungus<br />

shades the leaves and reduces photosynthesis,<br />

potentially effecting the long-term vigor of the plant.<br />

Control of sucking insects will halt further<br />

development of sooty mold. Existing sooty mold on<br />

leaves will wear off through the actions of sun, rain<br />

and wind. Sprays of insecticidal soaps and<br />

horticultural oils <strong>for</strong> control of aphids and scales also<br />

help to loosen and remove sooty mold.<br />

Witches’ Broom is the most serious plant disease<br />

of oleanders. It is caused by a fungus, Sphaeropsis<br />

tumefaciens, which causes tip die back and the<br />

<strong>for</strong>mation of a tight cluster of shoots from below the<br />

affected area. These shoots will grow only a few<br />

inches, turn brown and die. Infectious symptoms can<br />

appear in two to fifteen weeks after the infection<br />

occurs, and seem to be more common during cooler<br />

months. The fungus can be spread by wind, insects,<br />

or by infected pruning tools.<br />

No chemical fungicides are available to control<br />

witches’ broom, and no oleander cultivars are known<br />

to be resistant to this affliction. Affected stems<br />

should be pruned back at least 6 inches into<br />

unaffected wood. Look at the cut end of the stem to<br />

see if any discoloration from the systemic fungal<br />

growth is present, and prune back further if this is<br />

noticed. To prevent infection of unaffected plant<br />

parts, dip pruning tools in rubbing alcohol be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

using them on another branch or plant.<br />

Bacterial Gall is a plant disease occasionally seen<br />

as wart-like growths on oleanders. Spongy growths on<br />

leaves and longitudinal swellings on the stems result<br />

from the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae tonelliana<br />

entering wounds caused by insects or other agents.<br />

As with witches’ broom, prune out affected parts and<br />

sterilize pruning tools.<br />

Another plant disease of oleanders that is<br />

sometimes encountered is Mushroom Root Rot, which<br />

may be caused by the fungus Armillaria mellea or<br />

other fungal organisms. The plant appears to wilt<br />

because the crown areas have been damaged by the<br />

fungus, preventing the movement of moisture into the<br />

tops of the plant. Wet soil conditions encourage the<br />

fungus. Avoid over-watering and limit the use of<br />

heavy clay or muck soils; excessive mulching which<br />

covers up the crown also should be avoided.<br />

Propagation<br />

Oleander can be propagated vegetatively by<br />

softwood, semi-hardwood, or tip cuttings. Cuttings<br />

root easily when taken in early summer. Use of<br />

rooting hormone improves rooting percentages. Tip<br />

or air layers also may be taken to propagate<br />

oleanders. Because of the ease of vegetative<br />

propagation, use of seed to grow new oleanders can<br />

not be recommended except <strong>for</strong> plant breeders.<br />

Cultivars<br />

Many cultivars of oleanders have been selected<br />

and developed by private individuals, nurseries and<br />

public institutions. A tentative checklist of oleander<br />

cultivars lists 401 entries; of these about 175 are said<br />

to be currently available <strong>for</strong> horticultural use.<br />

Selected oleander cultivars are listed and described in<br />

Table 1.<br />

TOXICITY<br />

According to the American Medical Association<br />

Handbook on Poisonous and Injurious Plants, all parts<br />

of the oleander plant contain two toxic principles.<br />

These toxic principles, oleandroside and nerioside,<br />

both have been identified as glycosides. This<br />

extremely toxic plant can poison livestock and humans<br />

at any time of the year. Lethal doses of leaves <strong>for</strong><br />

livestock have been established <strong>for</strong> horses (15-30<br />

grams), cows (10-25 grams), and sheep (1-5 grams).<br />

Many people in the landscape industry have spent<br />

years working with oleander without experiencing<br />

oleander poisoning from landscape workers or from<br />

plants in the landscape. A 1961 report exists of<br />

flamingos being killed by oleander poisoning. There


<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> Page 5<br />

are also reports that children in India died from<br />

eating the flowers and a report from <strong>Florida</strong> that<br />

persons using oleander sticks to cook hot dogs were<br />

poisoned.<br />

Symptoms<br />

Action of the poisons in oleander is similar to the<br />

action of the heart drug known as digitalis. The usual<br />

symptoms are severe gastroenteritis, diarrhea,<br />

abdominal pain, sweating and weakness. These signs<br />

appear within a few hours after eating the leaves.<br />

Cardiac irregularities are common, often<br />

characterized by increased heart rate. However, a<br />

slower heart rate is often detected in the later stages.<br />

Symptomatic treatment is suggested but is usually<br />

unsuccessful. Contact a physician, hospital, or poison<br />

control center if ingestion is suspected.<br />

Precautions with Oleander<br />

Because of its poisonous nature, the placement of<br />

this plant in a landscape should be carefully<br />

considered. The best use of this plant may be in<br />

areas where people will not come in direct contact<br />

with it. Parents should avoid planting oleander in<br />

their home landscape where there is a potential <strong>for</strong><br />

small children to consume parts of this plant. When<br />

disposing of branches pruned from oleanders, do not<br />

burn the branches: the volatile oils that make the<br />

plant poisonous will become airborne and may cause<br />

respiratory difficulties if the smoke is inhaled. Pet<br />

owners and livestock producers also are cautioned to<br />

place this plant out of the reach of animals who may<br />

graze on it.<br />

It is not recommended that oleanders be<br />

eliminated from all <strong>Florida</strong> landscapes. To do so<br />

would limit our choices of colorful flowering shrubs<br />

that thrive in adverse environmental conditions with<br />

minimal care. A better approach is to educate<br />

persons, workers and residents to treat them with<br />

respect and to place them where the danger of<br />

poisoning will be limited.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Atilano, R.A. "Screening Oleander Cultivars <strong>for</strong><br />

Resistance to Witches’ Broom." Proceedings of<br />

the <strong>Florida</strong> State Horticultural Society 94<br />

(1981):218-219.<br />

Broschat, Timothy K. & Meerow, Alan W. Betrock’s<br />

Reference Guide to <strong>Florida</strong> Landscape Plants.<br />

Cooper City, FL: Betrock Publishing Co., 1991.<br />

Gilman, Edward F. & Watson, Dennis G. "Nerium<br />

Oleander - Oleander" (Fact Sheet ST-412).<br />

Gainesville: <strong>Florida</strong> Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong><br />

<strong>Service</strong>, March 1994.<br />

Graf, Alfred B. Exotica 4. East Ruther<strong>for</strong>d: Roehrs<br />

Company, 1985.<br />

Johnson, Warren T. & Lyon, Howard H. Insects that<br />

Feed on Trees and Shrubs. 2nd ed. Ithaca:<br />

Cornell University Press, 1991.<br />

Lampe, K.F. & McCann, M. 1985. AMA Handbook<br />

of Poisonous and Injurious Plants. Chicago:<br />

American Medical Association. Distributed by<br />

Chicago Review Press.<br />

Pagen, F.J.J. <strong>Oleanders</strong> - Nerium L. and the Oleander<br />

Cultivars. Netherlands: Agricultural University<br />

Wageningen, 1988.<br />

Rose, Sylvester. "Nerium oleander." Gainesville:<br />

<strong>Florida</strong> Cooperative <strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong>, undated.<br />

Sander<strong>for</strong>d, Mark V. Acoustic Courtship<br />

Communication of the Polka Dot Wasp Moth,<br />

Syntomeida epilas Walker. Winston-Salem, NC:<br />

Wake Forest University, PhD Dissertation, May<br />

1992.<br />

Smith, Michael D., ed. The Ortho Problem Solver.<br />

2nd ed., 521-523. San Francisco: Ortho<br />

In<strong>for</strong>mation <strong>Service</strong>s, 1984.<br />

Watkins, John V. & Sheehan, Thomas J. <strong>Florida</strong><br />

Landscape Plants. Gainesville: University Presses<br />

of <strong>Florida</strong>, 1975.<br />

West, Erdman. "Poisonous Plants Around the Home"<br />

(Bulletin 175D). Gainesville: <strong>Florida</strong> Cooperative<br />

<strong>Extension</strong> <strong>Service</strong>, November 1993.


<strong>Oleanders</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>Florida</strong> Page 6<br />

Table 1. Characteristics of Selected Nerium oleander Cultivars.<br />

Size Group and Cultivar Flower Color Flower Type Origin Comments<br />

DWARF (mature height 3-5 feet)<br />

Petite Salmon orangish-pink single 1973 Los<br />

Angeles<br />

Arboretum<br />

Petite Pink pink --- 1973 Los<br />

Angeles<br />

Arboretum<br />

Sister Agnes or Soeur Agnés white, cream<br />

throat<br />

TALL (mature height 10-25 feet or more)<br />

may be hedged to 3 feet;<br />

will grow to 6 feet, tightly<br />

branched.<br />

well suited <strong>for</strong> residential<br />

landscapes<br />

single 1868 France hardy, fragrant, large<br />

flowers, favored in<br />

Cali<strong>for</strong>nia because spent<br />

blooms readily drop<br />

Atropurpureum dark purple-red single 1835 Belgium hardy, large blooms<br />

Calypso deep pink single 1975 <strong>Florida</strong> very hardy and vigorous,<br />

good blooming<br />

Carneum Plenum or Mrs.<br />

Roeding<br />

Comfe Berthelemy or<br />

Commandant Berthelemy<br />

salmon-pink double 1854 Germany somewhat weaker growth,<br />

persistent blooms slightly<br />

weeping growth habit<br />

red and pink<br />

with yellow<br />

margins<br />

superposed corollas 1898 France large flower<br />

Common dark pink to red single 79 A.D.<br />

Mediterranean<br />

an unimproved natural<br />

variety, unscented<br />

Hardy Red bright red single 1965 large flowers and<br />

inflorescences<br />

Isle of Capri light yellow single 1963 tender<br />

Pink Hawaii salmon pink,<br />

yellow throat<br />

single 1965 vigorous growth; an<br />

introduction used at Disney<br />

World<br />

Roseum rose pink single 1872 Italy profuse flowering, vigorous<br />

Variegatum pink single 1822 France vigorous; narrow gray green<br />

foliage with marginal<br />

variegation.<br />

Variegatum plenum pink with rose<br />

throat<br />

double 1978 Dark green foliage with<br />

marginal variegation<br />

White white single 1874 ---

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